True winter hits here around Feb. Sea reaches it's coldest and normally the swells fade away as the still and icy weather rolls in. This year though I got lucky with a solid swell during a freezing week and had the coldest session of my life. It was made better by the fact that problems with my knee and various trips and plans had stopped me surfing this, my favourite local spot, for 8 weeks. It felt amazing to get back in the water for a classic super shallow reef session. Twin keels ruined, stoke at an all time high.

The Wedge Is Not Your Friend

The Wedge Is Not Your Fri...

in SoCal