What makes up your dream session?
Perfect waves at some far away destination or epic conditions at your local beach? With friends or alone? Big waves or small? Hollow death-barrels or Brazilian launch pads? The elements that make up a dream session depend on the surfer. What makes you excited is certainly not what gets Twiggy Baker’s blood going, unless you’re stoked to paddle into 30 ft. Mavericks bombs. And all your dream may consist of is a head dip and butt wiggle. But it’s your dream session and there’s no rules.
My best? It’s a tough one, but I have to go with an incredible day at a local beach. There’s a spot I check when certain conditions come together and I can usually find fun peaky A-frames with few people around. It’s my escape from maddening line-ups. So, one day, several years ago, with a hurricane veering out to sea and a favorable wind, I gave it a look. Not sure if it was the sand, the swell direction, the tide or a combination of it all, but I found myself staring at a true 200 yard right pointbreak, firing in complete loneliness. A-frames and crowds be damned. This was an empty paradise and I didn’t need to get on a plane to Indo to find it. Not a drop of water was out of place and wave after wave spun with unyielding repetition, as though born from a C.A.D.D..
Knowing what the wave face would do, I had the chance to push my abilities to the limit, drawing out longer turns, going for broke on floaters and lip bashes and trying stuff I’d never had the confidence or stage to attempt them. Never trusting my luck, I paddled for everything that came in, convinced that the wind would change, a crowd would appear from the mist, the wave would begin to section, a shark would gnaw off my foot—any host of possibilities that’d end the dream. I ended up bagging dozens of waves in over 3 hours and only stopped when I physically couldn’t paddle any more.
I staggered up the sand with board in hand and a giant cat-ate-the-canary grin, swearing myself to secrecy about the spot.
So, what was your dream session? We’d love to hear it. And best one gets an Art Brewer gallery program, which consists of a few frameable prints of some of his most classic shots.