Such a fun, surprising little session last night with my step-son. As the sun went down and the sky lit up, the ocean got silky smooth and a perfect little A-frame formed just off our local beach. While it wasn't big, it was sweet with an easy roll-in and a gaping barrel on the inside. Plus, our hearts got an extra beat when a gang of stingrays flew in to feed on the crabs in the shallows. It was...uh...interesting, because they weren't small. And you know what follows stingrays, right?
Suicide. Addiction. Self-Injury. Depression.
Dirty words, every one of ‘em. But they describe the daily struggles and afflictions that affect tens of millions of Americans.
So, what does this have to do with surfing? Everything. Because members of our own tight-knit community suffer from these brutal battles every day and are crying out for help or are suffering under the stigma that blankets mental illness and addiction. In fact, too many surfer kids in several of our own beach communities have committed suicide and the war is on to save the rest. I know, because I’m involved in the fight on a first hand basis and am spurred on by the pain I still feel 32 years after losing my brother, Bill, to suicide. But there’s hope.
Just tell me that you got some of the swell last Saturday, June 2nd. Good Lord was it sweet with overhead A frames bombing into the beaches! Read on for more....
Absolutely classic footage of Batman, Mr. Ed, Gidget and more showing us all a thing or two. Check out this clip for the styles and trickery that set the stage for the likes of Buttons, Lopez, Carroll, Curren, Slater and even John John.
Little fella’s cute, eh? And to a great white, he’s darn tasty.
This harbor seal appeared on my local New Jersey beach, bellying out of the water while I was doing an impromptu clean-up with my kids. Figured picking up trash gave us some kind of good karma moment. But it did get me thinking…
No really, I didn't mind missing all the surf in New Jersey this past two weeks. I was perfectly happy being out in SF looking at overhead Ocean Beach without a board and getting calls from buddies about how much they scored. "Best New Jersey in a long time!" "Epic waves!" "Wish you coulda' been there with me...did I tell you it was E-P-I-C?"
The next time you find yourself wrapped in layer after layer of warm woolens, shivering from a bitter wind and thinking that the overhead surf is just too much given the butterflies bouncing around in your stomach, think of the following quote by big wave hellman, Mark Healey: